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Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Vintage WWI Eggless, Milkless, Butterless Cake

I found this recipe in our local Newspaper a couple weeks ago. . .Brilliant!

1 C water
2 C raisins
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/tsp. nutmeg
1/2 tsp. cloves
1 C brown sugar
1/3 C shortening
1/4 tsp. salt
2 C. flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. baking powder

Place water, raisins, cinnamon, cloves, brown sugar, shortening, nutmeg and salt in a saucepan and mix. Place on heat and bring to a boil. Cook 3 minutes. Allow to cool, then sift together the flour, baking soda and baking powder. Stir into cooked mixture. Place in a greased loaf pan and bake at 350 for one hour.

Dry Soup Mixes For Long Term Storage

Typically dry soup mixes cost around $2 or more to purchase at the stores.  These mixes can be made in the home for a fraction of the cost.  Mixes that are made at home will not have the added colors and preservative that commercial soup mixes have such as MSG (monosodium glutamate), disosdium inosinate, and disodium guanylate.  The recipes are endless with soup mixes, and can be stored for up to 6 months to 1 year.  Since dehydrated food still has a majority of vitamins and nutrition, there is added health benefits in the soup.  Having pre-packaged dry soup mixes in bug out bags can provide a nutritious meal or snack or when someone is in a pinch for time.
Vegetable Soup
  • 1/3 c. dried vegetable flakes (any combination such as tomatoes, onion, peas, zuchinni, celery, carrots)
  • 1 tbls. bulgur wheat
  • 1 tbls. small pasta
  • 1/4 tsp. dried sweet basil
  • 1/4 tsp. dried parsley
  • pinch of garlic powder and onion powder
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 c. boiling water
Place the dried vegetables in a dry blender and blend it until the size of flakes.  Measure 1/3 cup.  Save remaining vegetables for another day.  Place 1/3 cup flaked vegetables in a pint thermos.  Add parley, basil, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and pepper.  Add Bulgar wheat and pasta to thermos.  Bring broth to a boil and pour over dry ingredients.  Quickly cover thermos and close securely.  Yield: 2 cups.
Creamy Country Soup
  • 2 c. instant nonfat dry milk powder
  • 10 tbls. cornstarch
  • 1/4 c. chicken bouillon granules
  • 2 tbls. dried vegetable flakes
  • 1 tsp. onion powder
  • 1/2 tsp. dried marjoram
  • 1/4 tsp. garlic powder
  • 1/8 tsp. white pepper
  • 2 c. boiling water
In a food processor or blender, combine all the ingredients; cover and process until vegetable flakes are finely chopped.  Store in an airtight container for 1 year.  When ready to cook, add ingredients to boiling water and allow to simmer 20-30 minutes.
Yields: 16 servings
Cream of Potato Soup
  • 1 3/4 c. instant mashed potato flakes
  • 1 1/2 c. dry milk powder
  • 2 tbls. chicken boullion granules
  • 2 tsp. dried minced onion
  • 1 tsp. dried parsley
  • 1/4 tsp. ground white pepper
  • 1/4 tsp. dried thyme
  • 1 1/2 tsp. seasoning salt
  • 2 c. boiling water
To make soup, combine ingredients into boiling water until smooth and vegetable flakes are soft.
Yields: 6 servings
Chicken and Rice Soup
  • 2 c. uncooked long grain brown rice
  • 1/2 c. chicken bouillon granules
  • 4 tsp. dried tarragon
  • 1 tsp. white pepper
  • 3 c. water
  • 1 tbls. butter or margarine
To prepare soup: In a saucepan, bring water, butter, and 2/3 c. of the soup mix to a boil.  Reduce heat; cover and simmer for 30-35 mintues or until the rice is tender.
Yield: 6 servings
Hearty Bean Soup
  • 2 c. dried yellow split peas
  • 2 c. green dried split peas
  • 2 c. dried lima beans
  • 2 c. dried pinto beans
  • 2 c. dried great northern bean
  • 1 c. minced dried minced onions
  • 1 c. dried carrots
  • 1 c. dried celery
  • 12 sun dried tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 1/2 tsp. dried cumin
  • 1 tsp. dried marjoram leaves
  • 1 1/2 tsp. garlic powder
  • 1 tsp. onion salt
  • 1/4 tsp. pepper
  • 8 c. water
  • 1 ham bone (for flavoring) – * This ingredient should not be stored with the ingredients, but used in the cooking process.
Combine water and soup mix in large stockpot.  Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 2 minutes.  Reduce heat to low and simmer for 2 hours or until beans are tender.  Remove meat from bone and return to soup.
 Creamy Cheese Soup
  • 1 c. of powdered cheese
  • 3 tsp. chicken bouillon granules
  • 1/2 tsp. pepper
  • 1 c. vegetable soup mix
  • 3 tbls. dried parsley flakes
  • 3 c. dry nonfat milk, or powdered coffee creamer
  •  5 tbls. cornstarch
  • 8 c. boiling water
Mix all ingredients together with boiling water.  Allow soup to to combine 3-5 minutes.
Yields: 8 servings
Dehydrated soup mixes are a great way to make use of the high vegetable yields of the summer.  Additionally, these soups mixes can be stored between 6 – 12 months and would make a great addition to food stuffs for the long winter months (especially if a person is snowed in and needs something to warm them up).

Dehydrate Foods for Long Term Storage

Bulking up on food for long term food storage is always a good idea in the case a long term disaster were to occur.  However, those who are preparing for long term disasters know that purchasing long term food sources such as freeze dried foods have the advantage of lasting for 10 years, but it can be costly.  There is another method that is both cost effective, and more nutritious.
For centuries, dehydrating food has been seen as a survival necessity.  Many believe this preservation method is the safest, most affordable and best way to preserve flavors of foods.  The dehydration process removes moisture from the food so that bacteria, yeast and mold cannot grow.  The added benefit is the dehydration process minimally effects the nutritional content of food.  In fact, when using an in-home dehydration unit, 3%-5% of the nutritional content is lost compared to the canning method which losses 60%-80% of the nutritional content.  Additionally, vitamins A and C, carbohydrates, fiber, potassium, magnesium, selenium and sodium are not altered or lost in the drying process.  Therefore, the end result is nutrient packed food that can be stored long term.

How Can a Person Use a Dehydrator

There are multiple ways that one can use a dehydrator.  They can dry vegetables, fruits, make jerky, make fruit or vegetable leather, dry herbs, make spices, dry noodles, and even make crafts such as dough ornaments.
Dehydrating vegetables and fruits  to use for long term storage is a great way of including needed nutrition into diets with minimal investment.  When dehydrating food, one should use fresh produce or meat.  Typically, when overly ripe fruits and vegetables are dehydrated, the texture is not as crisp.  For example, if one were to dehydrate over ripe bananas, the end result would be a chewy banana chip as opposed to a crispy banana chip.  If a person were to use the ripe fruits or vegetables, they could puree the produce and make fruit or vegetable leather to use later.

How Long Does Dehydrated Food Last

In most cases, dehydrated food can be stored for up to a year.  Once dehydrated, the food does not take up a lot of space, and can be stored in a more organized fashion.
  • Fruits and vegetables can last for up to 1 year, if properly stored.
  • Dried meats should be consumed within 2-3 months.  However, it is suggested that if dried meats have not been consumed after 1 month, they should be stored in the refrigerator to prolong the freshness.
  • Herbs can last for years.
  • Noodles should be eaten within 1 year in order to enjoy the freshness.
If a person wanted to rehydrate the food to use in cooking, add boiling water and cover with a lid for 20-30 minutes to expidite the process. It is recommended to add salt after the re-hydration process has been completed.

Storing Dry Foods

Once food has been dehydrated, it should be stored in an area not exposed to a lot of light, such as a pantry.  It is recommended that any food that contains vitamin A not be exposed to light.  According to James Talmage Stevens’ book, Making the Best of Basics, Stevens recommends these general storage suggestions:
  • Freezer-weight, zip-lock bags are excellent for packaging dried foods.  Force excess air from bags as they are sealed.
  • Procure heavy-duty, food-grade, storage-quality, sealable plastic bags from local commercial packaging wholesalers.
  • Store dried food products in a cool, dry location out of direct sunlight.  Use a Kraft paper bag inside larger plastic bags to shield dried foods from sunlight.  Paper used outside the plastic bags provides a nesting place for bugs or spiders.
  • Store only one kind of food in each individual package to avoid mixing flavors and possible cross-contamination should molds or spoilage occur.
  • Another method for storing dried products is to place dried food in a food-quality, plastic bag, then put i tin an airtight glass or metal container.
  • Discard moldy food.  Don’t take chances on botulism or a debilitating sickness over a few pennies or dollars.  Don’t feed mold foods to pets, either!
  • The problem of a few bugs in dried foods may be solved by spreading the infested dried food on a cookie pan, placing in tn a 300 degree oven for 25-30 minutes.  Bugs and eggs die, and the food is edible again. (Protein content is higher too).
In planning for a long term disaster, people are always trying to find foods they can look forward to that will give them optimum nutrition.  Having the necessary vitamins and nutrition will give a person mental clarity, and strength to carry on during a disaster.  After all, surviving and being healthy is what matters.

Disaster Tip of the Week: Start and Keep a Go Bag Ready At All Times

First let me start off by saying that your Go-Bag or Bug-Out Bag should not be your only, or main source in a survival situation. You should have other supplies ready to keep you and your family sustained for an extended period of time.
The idea of a Go-Bag or Bug-Out Bag is to have supplies ready at a moments notice should you have to leave or evacuate from your home, or other location. These supplies should be packed ahead of time and hopefully placed into a backpack so it is comfortable to carry since you may be traveling a long distance.
In most cases you would not have time to gather the supplies needed during an evacuation, so it is best to have them ready to go at all times. I see many people intending to use a go-Bag as their main source for survival if everything goes south. I can't stress enough how important it is to keep your go-Bag separate from your regular supplies.
In addition, every member of your family, or party if you have one should have their own bag. Even children should have their own bags so long as they can carry one. We'll discuss go-Bags for kids at another time.
Now that we have covered the true purpose of a go-Bag lets discuss what you should put in it. First the bag should be a good solid bag, preferably as mentioned earlier a backpack. If you have to leave on foot, or become stranded a backpack is the easiest bag to carry.
What should you put into your bag? While many people argue about what items and brands are best to carry, we are just going to stick with the basics.
Here is a basic list of items you will want to consider including in your go-Bag:
  1.  Cash - plenty of it because depending on the event credit cards may not be useful. Consider having about $500 in ones (the more the better, and try to make them all singles), that way you never need change. A couple of quarter rolls could come in handy for Public phones, vending machines and laundry. Do not "flash" it around, unless you like being robbed, even assaulted, i.e. mugged. I suggest carrying different amounts in various pockets and keeping several "Throw Away Bills" in case you do get mugged, throw that onto the ground so you can make a fast get away.
  2. First Aid Kit - a decent well-stocked kit, including a couple of weeks' supply of any prescription medications you need.
  3. Sewing Kit. Include in this non-waxed floss and a U-shaped leather needle. Include extra needles, thread, buttons and if you can, fabric.
  4. Clothing - Wool is best as cotton is useless once it gets wet; add thermal wear, underwear, sock and carry extras of everything.
  5. Crank style Flashlight and glow-sticks.
  6. Crank style NOAA weather/AM-FM Radio. If you use one that takes batteries, carry extras.
  7. Food and water -- Carry enough to get you where you want to go plus extra.
  8. Lighter, waterproof matches and another source such as a strike based fire starter. Always best to carry extras here as well.
  9. Hand and feet warmers -- 2 per person if you can.
  10. Good sleeping bag -- can double as a blanket at a shelter.
  11. Good air matress if you can.
  12. Wool blanket, not a must if you have a sleeping bag, but great to have.
  13. Emergency Mylar Space blankets.
  14. Good rain poncho -- one that covers you and your bag is best.
  15. Rope -- Carry several, great for many things, from shelter, to rescue.
  16. Duct Tape.
  17. Tarp -- can double as emergency shelter if you don't have a tent.
  18. Dust Masks carry several per person.
  19. Maps -- local and the location where you want to go.
  20. leather work gloves.
  21. Folding saw.
  22. Hatchet.
  23. Multi-tool.
  24. 2 knives.
  25. Toiletries.
  26. compass/GPS (good to carry 2 compasses if just for reassurance).
  27. Gun and ammo if possible.
  28. Fishing hooks, and fishing wire, a couple of sinkers and floats ill be good too.
  29. Important documents, license, passport, etc.
  30. pen and paper.
This is a great list to get started with and you will have to make adjustments based on what type of load you can carry, and how far you are traveling.
What are some items that you keep in your go-Bag?

B.O.B. and ideas for your animals.

I have seen bits and pieces concerning animals and WTSHTF ideas but what would you really do?

Those who have more farm animals probably will not be moving or leaving their farms. But what about those like myself and others who live in the city yet have areas in which they can escape too? Here are some ideas, but nothing you have to live by:

Dogs and Cats. Yes they ARE domesticated, so don’t do the normal assholistic and just let them out and roam hoping they can take care of themselves. My dog and my cats are smart but they are also all pound rescues and have been through enough and only 1 could probably defend itself. And since I did not have them since the beginning I did not have the right to say what was to be done to them. I.E. neuter or spaying or in the cats world, declawing. Never declaw a cat! It is a horrible process and I am not a tree hugger by any means as I have worked in a Vet office a long time ago. It was horrible to watch the doctor use dog nail clippers and literally take off the cat’s toes. My one cat that is declawed wouldn’t hurt a fly and I think he may be slightly retarded but he is a good pet and de-stresses me. But I digress…

If you have animals and I am talking cats and dogs mostly, you need to find a metal or plastic container that can hold up to 2 large 40 lbs bags of dog food or at least 3 large 20 lbs bags of cat food. The less “oil” in their food the better. The oil is actually a fatty solution that is sprayed on the pellets (food) for flavor. There are other ways of getting some fat to your furried friends then the spraying type. Dog food is easier to find without the spray on oil then cat food as cats are, to be nice, picky. But even the pickiest eater will eat if they are starving. The best food I have found so far that is not highly sprayed with the oil and keeps pretty well as is high in protein for cats and dogs is called Taste of the Wild. All of their food is natural and they do not use grain! For me, that is a big issue as I have had dogs and cat die due to bloat. Check them out, Taste of the Wild is also an American company and is reasonably priced! Also.. put bay leaves at the bottom of the bucket and line it every 6 inches around on up. It keeps the bugs out as it does in flour. The power of bay leaves!

Vitamins are also a big deal. You don’t really need to use them as much now due to the food and the FDA making the pet industry put vitamins in the food, but what happens when the food is all gone and you may start feeding them with a beef/venison/chicken rice mixture? You will have to give some vitamins, at least to your dog once a week. Your cats absorb and create their own vitamins via what they eat. But giving them a nice rice treat (if they will eat it) with a vitamin mix once a month can prolong their life, especially if you are breeding them for mousers for other people.

A warm place for your animals is ideal as well. Just because they have a coat doesn’t mean anything. Their coat is like a layer of clothing and just like humans, they feel the cold and some hate it. I let the animals sleep with me, it keeps me warm and them as well. But it is also added protection if they sense something when I am asleep. Dogs and cats can get sick as well due to the elements and in some cases they are worse then us.

When your animals are sick, keep them warm. You CAN give them small amounts (and I do mean extreme small) of human medications. Aspirin is good for both dogs and cats. Cats should get 1/16th at most twice a day. Dogs can have a half tab twice a day. Pain killers work the same way. Just an itty bitty piece for a cat (not a kitten) and a quarter for a dog. You have to go off weights for cats and dogs and since most veterinarians prescribe the same stuff humans take, you have to be more cautious. I won’t go into details on what to use. But you can use benadryl for animals that have allergies, aspirin for pain(s), ointment to help with small wounds. Make sure to have a pill popper for your cats and dogs as they can choke too!

Make a small B.O.B for your animals as well. Cats and Dogs are simple; it is just their temperament you need to worry about. I always pack a 3 day pack of food for all the animals, collapsible water bowls, a gallon sized scoop-able litter kit and use an old collapsible water bowl for their liter pan so I can throw away the litter quickly and a extendable and fixed leash for the dog. I have a collapsible cat hut and I have two small harnesses for the cats to put them on leashes as well. Since I don’t take the cats out very often on their harness and leashes, I make sure they are use to wearing the harnesses at least. But these are also the break away harnesses so if anything ever happens and they get caught and I can’t find them, they can live. Also dog booties are a good idea and some bag balm. Your dog may not be use to walking a lot, so booties may be ideal due to type of land and the bag balm is for their pads.

These are just some suggestions. I don’t pretend to know it all. But if these can work for you, then you are more then welcome to it.  Remember, your animals can be a bargining chip for others.