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Thursday, April 16, 2009

72 Hour Kits: Personal Supplies

From my search across the internet and in various preparedness books, I've put together a list of personal items for 72-hour kits. I've also read many stories of people evacuating Hurricane Katrina and my list has items you want to have so you don't have to run through your house gathering them in an evacuation.

It would be nice to say that you and your spouse would be home to help your children, or you, during an evacuation. But I believe you need to plan for different scenarios such as: you will be home by yourself while your kids are in school, or older children will be on their own and you will be gone, or it will be the middle of the night while you are sleeping. So, these personal items are items you might need for 72-Hours or more.

We also store additional items in our combined Family Emergency buckets which I will write about in an another post. If you would like to read about food packs for your 72-hour kits, go to my March 24th post or April 6th posts.

If you are using backpacks or another container for your 72-Hour Kits, keep in mind that you want the total carrying weight to be about 25% of your body weight including the weight of your container. If you have an infant or preschooler, you may not need to put toiletries and money in their kits so adjust for the needs and circumstances of each family members. My list below is only a suggestion. I keep changing my mind and adjusting, and so can you. I have collected most of these items already, but still have some work to do.

72-Hour Kit Personal Supplies
Backpack, tote or small suitcase
List of items in kit (put near top)
Important numbers (update every 6 months)
A recent family photo
Map of city and vicinity
Small flashlight like a Maglite
Batteries for flashlight (put in separate baggie with the flashlight near top)
Emergency rain poncho (put near top)
3-N95 Medical mask (put at top) (Can help during a fire)
Mini First Aid Kit (update every 6 months) (put near top)
Light stick on a neck cord
Whistle on a neck cord
Hand warmers
Thermal reflective (space) blanket
3 day supply of food (2000 calories per day per adult)
3 gallons of water (*will be more than you can carry. Only pack what you can carry)
Pencil and small notebook
Cards, crossword puzzles, sudoku, etc.
Paperback book
Scriptures (Military size is good)
Small comb or brush
Small mirror
Antibacterial hand wipes
Pocket tissues
Lip balm
Wash cloth for sponge bath
Travel-sized toothpaste, toothbrush
Travel-sized liquid body soap
Travel-sized shampoo/conditioner
Travel-sized deodorant
Travel-sized lotion
Travel-sized hand sanitizer
Razor (males)
Personal sanitary items
3 large trash bags
Toilet paper roll
Copies of personal papers & documents for this person (put in hidden but accessible location)
Money - $50 per pack, small bills & coins, waterproof bag (put in hidden but accessible location. This is not all the emergency cash you should have. Just an amount that is always stashed away in your 72-hour kit.)
Waterproof matches (not for young children)
Extra Kit Items for Kids
Games, cross-word puzzles, coloring book and crayons, stuffed animal, small toys, infant pacifier **Note: I asked my 4 year-old which small stuffed animal she wanted in her emergency backpack. She brought me several and then I had her choose one that she could slip inside. Making her a part of the preparations has made her backpack special to her. She brought out her backpack on Easter to show it to her college-aged brother.
Comfort foods
Clothing Ideas
Complete set clothing: pants, 2 socks, underwear, long-sleeved shirt (can roll up if hot), hat, mittens
Sturdy shoes (Not in pack)
Coat (Not in pack) However, if you can squish a windbreaker in, do it.
Sleeping bag or lightweight wool blanket (Not in pack) (in lawn bag or sturdy bag)
Sleeping pad (grab if you have time)

Here is my list in a PDF file and an excel file. And here are some lists that may help you figure out your needs:
Boy Scout Summer Backpacking List
FEMA Basic Disaster Supplies List

This post is part of a series of posts I'm doing to help you with your 72-hour kits and emergency supplies. Check the side of my blog for more information on 72-Hour Kits

Original: http://preparedldsfamily.blogspot.com/2009/04/72-hour-kits-personal-supplies.html

Pigs for survival

I hear a lot of people talk about raising chickens, ducks, rabbits, and goats which are all great animals for the small farm or back yard. Many of these animals can be raised on one acre or less; even in a suburban setting when local regulations permit it. Some communities have regulations which allow chickens, but not hoofed animals. Still, it is surprising that more people are not raising pigs.

Pigs have some tremendous benefits in survival situations. What might these benefits be? Well feeding them for one. Pigs need food to grow, but the reality is that they can eat almost anything. If enough pasture land is available, pigs can live off of the grasses. I have killed wild pigs in the woods which appeared to be making a good living on acorns and wild plants

Barring a crisis situation, pigs can be cheap to feed and they will certainly grow fatter with a little grain and day old bread from the local bakery. What else might they eat? Anything. I knew a farmer who would pick up road killed deer and feed to his pigs. They ate everything but the hide and the bones. One time he asked me to give him a hand feeding his pigs. When I arrived he had me help him move 55 gallon drums. The drums were full of cow innards from a local butcher shop. You guessed it, the pigs ate it all.

You might not want to feed your pigs cow innards and road killed dear on a regular basis, but in a crisis situation it is nice knowing you have an animal that can stay alive on almost anything.
Think about it. Any and all waste from the kitchen could go to the pigs. In addition, any left overs (innards) from other animals could go to the pigs. In addition you could find grass and plants to feed pigs all summer.

Other advantages to raising pigs include the fact that one sow will have between 6 and 14 piglets. That is more pork than you need, and it will probably be exactly what your neighbor needs and may be willing to trade something really nice to get.

If you can get your sow to birth in late winter or early spring, by late fall or perhaps Christmas you could butcher. You could butcher earlier or later if needed, but you would need to strike a balance between letting the pig grow bigger over time, and running out of feed in the winter. Winter is also a good time to butcher if you plan to cure the meat. When curing, the meat will need to sit in a salt solution for weeks and if the temperature is too high, the meat could spoil.

If you are thinking of survival food and farming, pigs are worth a serious look. They eat anything, grow fast, have lots of babies, are good for trading, and are mighty tasty.

Original: http://pennsylvaniapreppersnetwork.blogspot.com/2009/04/pigs-for-survival.html

Water Storage Options and Hello from PA!

Hey there!
I'm PMZ from PA. I'm attending college in NY State currently but will be back in the greater Lehigh Valley area come May. I'm glad to have the opportunity to learn from you all and occasionally contribute something or other. I've not been prepping for as long as some of you, but once in a while I may chip in.

Here's a short article I wrote regarding water supplies, treatement and stockpiling.
I posted this on www.bushcraftusa.com and http://berserkersbushcraft.blogspot.com/ a while ago and thought it worthy of it's own post on here...

Hey all,
Here is some food for thought...
The human body can survive for three days without water, even less in arid or hot environments, still less when performing hard work.

One needs at least a gallon of water per person per day per household. This is drinking and cooking water. Washing water should be factored in separately.

Since I am at college I have only myself and my roommates to provide for, however I have taken the liberty to stockpile water in plastic soda bottles and milk jugs. I have only enough for a few days; after that I'd have to resort to transporting it from the creek out back of the apartments. I pre-treat my water with 1/8 teaspoon of plain bleach per gallon, or even 1/8 teaspoon/half-gallon. Keep in mind that with this method of water storage, you must dispose of the containers every six months or so (the milk jugs in particular tend to degrade quickly).

Other methods include:

  • Storage in jerry-can-type water-cans, such as were used from WWII through current conflicts. These can be found in varying condition from various sellers. The best are lined with ceramic or some such as this prevents the growth of mold, mildew and bacteria while insulating your wasser for those hot days in the field.

  • Storage in HDPE "blue cans," these are the most cost-effective method to stockpile transportable amounts of water, usually between 3 and 5 gallons.

  • Storage in Food-Grade 55 gallon drums. Food grade barrels can be found for cheap, or even free from suppliers of honey, molasses, and various other types of food industries. You will want to pressure-wash these to remove traces of whatever was in them before you picked them up. Also keep in mind that while this is a viable option, it is hard to refill them or clean them without a pressurized water source, thus, this should not be your only means of storing water. The steel 55 gallon honey drums which my uncle sells from our corncrib back home are great for use as rainbarrels, which is a very effective way to put to use whatever precipitation drains off of your roof. Even a very small roof will collect a sizeable amount of water. It is a good idea to set up a gravity-fed irrigation system for your planters or garden boxes using rainbarrels.

  • Storage in large, buriable tanks. This is a good way to stockpile water, however you will want to have not only an inlet but a way to bleed it and also a way to treat it (such as bleach or pool crystals).

There are three distinct categories of water according to my friend Eric:

1. Drinkable water on hand: This is primarily bottled water. We have roughly a dozen cases on hand at any given time. I hope to double that amount very soon. We add a few cases each time we go to Costco or Sam's.

2. Accessible water on the property: For us, this includes the water in the water heater, a well, any water remaining in the pipes of our orchard sprinkler system, and our pond. I wouldn't want to drink the water from the pond unless necessary, but we could certainly use it for flushing toilets when needed. And in a worst case scenario I have everything I need to make the pond water safe enough to drink.

3. Water in the area, within walking/carrying distance: We have several small streams/rivers within just a couple of miles of our ranch. Water is heavy and I wouldn't want to transport too much of it very far, but it's good to know where it's at.
So following this logic, there is a strong case (perhaps stronger a case than for stockpiling food) for the stockpiling of drinkable water and the upkeep of water-collection systes BEFORE SHTF.

Therefore I recommend a Five-Pronged approach to stockpiling water:

We (as Survivalists) should have:

  • 1. Ultra-portable 1-gallon or Half-gallon-sized jugs or a case of bottled spring water to grab in a "leave-now-or-forever-hold-your-peace" scenario (bugout issue),
  • 2. Vehicle-portable jerry cans or blue jugs (preferably five per BOV in addition to case of spring water),
  • 3. Rainbarrels for sustainable gardening without the benefit of an electric well-pump,
  • 4. A hand-pump for our wells. This is something I've yet to convince my Dad is the most important prep-item you can get. Problem is it's a relatively expensive procedure. However in an emergency it'd be worth its weight in gold. Just be sure to place it in a location unavailable to the general public or its liable to walk off.
  • 5. A dedicated water-tank for SHTF scenarios. Remember that if it's not properly maintained, mold or other nasties are sure to grow in it.

My pal Eric states that the human body needs 80 oz. of water per day in comfortable weather WITHOUT hard work. He says that if one is eating MREs or other emergency rations, the amount of water necessary for digestion rises dramatically, so plan for 80 oz. of water/day/person.

For two people that would be 8.75 gallons of DRINKING water per week, or 35 gallons per month. He says an average-sized dog drinks approximately 1-1.5 gallons per week. A small dog or cat would probably drink less than a half-gallon per week.

So to keep two people and several dogs hydrated for a month, one would need 65 gallons. That is ONLY DRINKING WATER and DOES NOT include water for cooking, washing dishes, clothes, flushing toilets, etc.

What does this mean? This means we should each have on hand at least 100 gallons of fresh, non-contaminated drinking water. This is just for two people and some pets! Add a gallon of drinking water per day per person per household, and you may well end up deciding that you need a 300-gallon water tank IN ADDITION to your stocks of easily-transportable drinking water.

As always, remember that without the benefit of either an artesian well or a hand pump, one is at the mercy of the droughts and at the mercy of the rescuers. Thus it is absolutely imperative that we all have a good supply of drinking water on hand AND have the means to get more from our immediate water table. Those of us who live in the cities or suburbia will have a harder time meeting these needs. In a long-term SHTF scenario, these folks will have to relocate in order to be able to draw clean drinking water from streams, springs, lakes etc.

Some useful water-prep related links:
www.hewsystem.com ---> expensive, holds less, but is much more durable and fits tubs better.
www.waterbob.com---> less expensive option, holds more but is less durable.
www.aquatabs.ca ---inexpensive way to treat small amounts of water, (bleach based).
www.berkeyfilters.com ---> expensive.
http://shop.monolithic.com/products/...ic-drip-filter ---> less expensive option, best used in addition to bleach, iodine, boiling or other methods.


Till Next Time,

If anybody has any suggestions as per other ways to store/treat/swap water and boost water collection during droughts, let me know.


Original: http://pennsylvaniapreppersnetwork.blogspot.com/2009/04/water-storage-options.html

Looking at energy self reliance

Increasing global energy consumption and the contorversy over petroleum has brought focus to exploration and development of alternative energy sources—and not just for people focused on self reliance. Using alternative energy sources can be both beneficial and difficult. Let us explore various pros and cons of generally available alternative energy sources.

A major advantage of renewable energy is that it’s usually sustainable; what is used is naturally regenerated or can be replaced, and will never run out. More importantly renewable energy produces little or no waste products that may pollute or have harmful effects on the environment. Also, renewable energy sources are generally not trucked all over the country but rather used in the area were they occur.

A couple of long standing disadvantage of using renewable energy are that it is difficult to generate large quantities of electricity as has been done with the use of fossil fuels, and that most alternative electrical generation produces DC (direct current) instead of the AC (alternating current) that most consumer products are designed to use. This is addressed by installing an inverter—another cost, and another component that can break down—or by replacing all AC devices with DC devices…not a cheap prospect. Another common problem among alternative energy sources is the reliability of the energy supply, necessitating some sort of electrical storage system. Since it is naturally generated, renewable energy supply tends to rely upon the weather and climate. Another drawback of alternative energy sources is that it is relatively more expensive to set up the equipment necessary for generating the energy.

Here are the several advantages and disadvantages of alternative energy source by type.

  • Solar energy The sun is a great source of energy, both free and efficient. With the advances in solar panel efficiency over the last couple of decades, It is possible to maximize the energy given by the sun to replace traditional electricity. But there are limitations, both by region and by specific site; areas at high latitude and places with frequent rains are usually not capable of producing efficient solar energy, nor are heavily wooded homes.
  • Wind energy Wind is also an efficient electricity source. It is also a very environmentally friendly source of energy since there are no harmful byproducts produced in the process of converting the energy. Location is a very important factor in using wind energy; open areas, high latitudes and coast lines are good places to set up windmills…urban and suburban areas, not so much. Buildings and trees create turbulence that has a very negative affect on the efficiency of wind turbines. There are also concerns about birds flying into them.
  • Hydroelectric and tidal energy Both of these energy come from water. Hydroelectric energy can be sourced from dams, but there are also small scale Pelton wheels for domestic use. Tidal energy, on the other hand, uses the natural tides of the ocean. There are several disadvantages. Putting in dams on any stream or river is not only very expensive, there are scads of reasons that damming is a bad idea, specifically for fish. It’s been determined that there are only 9 places worldwide that are suitable for siting tidal energy plants. And tidal energy power plants are also said to provide negative effects on the migratory birds and the fishes.
  • Biomass Biomass consists of fermented animal waste, agricultural crops, grains and other natural products. It can be used to produce fuel alcohol to replace gasoline, and methane to replace natural gas. It maximizes waste materials as an alternative energy source. One drawback is that it that it still produces greenhouse gas; another is the quantities required—and the size of the system to deal with such quantities—to produce sufficient energy products to make it a viable alternative on a small scale.

Choosing an alternative energy source to meet your energy usage needs and thereby getting free of the commercial power grid is a focus that is usually about neck-and-neck with developing food self reliance for people who are interested in becoming more self reliant. Just about anyone can make some use of solar power, and some of us can go completely solar. Most of us, if we chose to, could use some form of biomass to augment our energy consumption. Some of us can utilize wind power, at least to some degree or another. A few of us are lucky enough to have a year-round creek on our property with enough flow and head that we can put in a small hydroelectic plant—Pelton wheels, while not cheap, are very efficient.

Do you have any alternative energy sources in place now? Are you looking to install one? Which one, and why? What did you take into consideration when you chose the alternative energy source that you did…or will?

Original: http://ourright2selfreliance.today.com/2009/04/15/looking-at-energy-self-reliance/

labeling long-term storage

As we continue to talk about different kinds of containers for long-term storage, you may have noticed that the foil bags, PETE bottles, buckets and #10 cans all look very generic. This can make finding food a little tricky. With a little work, I'm always able to find what I need, but typically it takes moving several stacks of buckets or shifting many boxes. I currently label my cans, boxes & bottles with a black sharpie. For my buckets, I only use a small piece of scotch tape with one edge folded back on itself (for easy removal). These labeling methods are okay but I still end up twisting buckets and straining to read my labels. I need a better system!

Recently Stephanie posted these food-storage labels at a local money-saving forum. She has given me permission to post these pictures.

Aren't these labels great!?! I think this is a fantastic idea! She made her labels on the computer and laminated them for durability. I like the idea of tying the labels to the bucket handles using ribbons. Those labels and ribbons would be much easier to find/see than my standard marker or tape. It would be so convenient to untie the label once the bucket was empty and keep the bucket-less labels on hand to let you know what you need to replace.

Here are some fun variations on her idea:
*Use different colored ribbons for each different food (i.e red for red wheat; black for black beans; pink for pinto beans; tan for oatmeal; white for rice; etc.).
*Use a second ribboned-label to indicate the date.
*Fancy ribbon isn't necessary - wrapping ribbon and index cards would work just fine.
*Instead of tying a ribbon to foil pouches or #10 cans (that don't have a handle like a bucket or a neck like the PETE bottles), just label the shelves like Stephanie has, or adhere a label with a small piece of ribbon directly to the product.
*Use different colors of paper to make labels for different food items.

Here are some other labeling tips and ideas:
*Label two sides and the top of each container for more visibility.
*Use different colors of permanent markers to differentiate between foods and/or dates.
*Jodi at foodstoragemadeeasy.net made her own labels and adhered them to her buckets.
*Use cup-holder screws to hang labels on wooden shelves.

How do you label (or easily find) your longer-term home storage items?

Original: http://iprepared.blogspot.com/2009/04/labeling-long-term-storage.html

Third Half - Guns

This is the third half of the blog post on guns.

Interchangeability of Ammunition
Ammunition is specifically designed. A .308 rifle cartridges will not fit in a 380 caliber pistol. One reason is the cartridge is too long. Another reason this doesn't work is the caliber is wrong; additionally, some cartridges are designed to produce a higher pressure when the round is fired. Some/Most guns can't handle these higher pressures of a different cartridge. Some can.

One of these is .38 Special cartridges in a revolver designed for the .357 magnum. These is an excellent article, explaining this interchangeability, by Richard Malay at http://www.recguns.com/Sources/IIIB4.html

Rangy Lyman produced a chart showing the cartridges that are interchangeable. The chart is at http://yarchive.net/gun/ammo/cartridge_interchange.html

But what about the lack of interchangeability between the .308 and 7.62 NATO cartridge?

The .308 cartridge can be loaded for a higher pressure than a 7.62 NATO round, so if you fire a 308 round in a gun designed to shoot 7.62 NATO, the rifle could be damaged.

Another danger is the 308 round is shorter then a 7.62 NATO cartridge. If you use a 308 cartridge in a rifle designed to shoot 7.62 NATO, the cartridge could rupture. A ruptured cartridge case would send very hot gases, from the burning powder, back into your eyes, face, and hands.

Chris Byrne, of The ArchAngel blog, has an excellent post on buying a scope for your rifles. His article is archived at http://anarchangel.blogspot.com/2008_08_01_archive.html You will have to scroll down to "Scoping Out." It is his August 4th post.

Other Bloggers' Efforts/Thoughts

Below are three links, one website and two blogs. If you stop by, please say thanks to the writers.

Angela has a wonderful post over at "Adventures In Self Reliance" on what else but Guns!!!

Adventures In Self Reliance - Basic Firearms Part 1: Safety ...

Maggy over at "Total Survivalist Libertarian Bitch Fest" puts it into perspective.

Total Survivalist Libertarian Bitch Fest - Quote Of The Day

Last but definitely Not Least

Kathy Jackson at "Cornered Cat"

Original: http://gsiep.blogspot.com/2009/04/third-half-guns.html

Cleaning Supplies Using Food Storage Items

Recently we received an email from one of our readers and Twitter friend (@MaryC49) we just HAD to share! Mary did a blog post all about homemade cleaners on her blog http://somethingaboutmaryc.blogspot.com. What a great idea to store simple ingredients in your storage that can make a variety of cleaners. Her post was so great, we are just copying it directly here (she gave us permission).

So straight from Mary’s Mouth:

Today I am sharing some of my home-made cleaning recipes. They work. I have been using them for several months and have eliminated most of the store bought, pre-made cleaning products in my home.

I bought a 3 pack of spray bottles at Costco. Each had a different color cap ring and spray trigger. I use GREEN for Floor Cleaner, BLUE for Glass Cleaner and RED for Multi-Purpose Cleaner. I also re-purposed a clear acrylic spray bottle to use for a Linen Sprayer. I cleaned it well and poured just-boiled water in it to sterilize.


A few items to keep on hand for FRUGAL and GREEN cleaning are:

  • Distilled Water (when you clean you should start without stuff in your liquid)
  • Vinegar (plain old cheapo white vinegar)
  • Dishwashing liquid (I like Method or Trader Joe’s)
  • Borax
  • Washing Soda
  • Baking Soda
  • Essential oil (optional)

So here are a few recipes to start:

Multi-Purpose Cleaner

1 teaspoon Washing Soda
1/2 teaspoon dishwashing liquid
4 cups hot distilled water (or fill your 32 to almost full)

Put the top on your sprayer and shake it up a bit. Use this for your regular cleaning in Kitchens, baths, etc. Don’t use it on stone or granite. I haven’t made one for that yet.

Window Cleaner

1/4 cup Vinegar
1/2 teaspoon dishwashing liquid
4 cups distilled water (or fill your 32 to almost full)

Put the top on the sprayer. Give it a shake or two. Use on Windows and glass. You can also use it on ceramic tile. Use newspaper to wash your windows. I use a microfiber cloth to clean mirrors and tile.

Floor Cleaner (Not the Mop Bucket kind -Ok for sealed Wood, Ceramic Tile, Sealed Stone and Laminate)

1/3 Cup Vinegar (NO MORE)
Fill the remainder of the 32 with Distilled Water
Shake it up.

To use: Spray (don’t squirt) on dust mop for daily clean-up. For build up on Wood or laminate floors, spray the floor and use a microfiber mop or cloth to buff the floor.

Linen Spray

1 1/2 oz Vodka
1/2 teaspoon Lavendar (or fragrance of your choice) essential oil
2 cups distilled water

I used a 16 oz spray bottle so a little was left. Place in spray bottle and shake well before using. Spray on your linens when you make the bed or use to iron with.

Oven Cleaner

Make a paste with Baking soda and water. Spread a bit on baked on gunk. Let sit a bit and then scrub off. Repeat if necessary. It also does a great job scrubbing grease off the inside of the oven window.

Soap Scum

Use a little baking soda with the Multi-Purpose Cleaner to scrub soap scum off shower doors and tubs.


Use 1/4 cup of borax in the bowl. Swish it around some. Let sit in bowl about 30 minutes. Swish again and flush. I also put the same amount of Borax in the back of the toilet every so often to disinfect the whole thing.

(with the help of Mary)

Original: http://foodstoragemadeeasy.net/2009/04/16/cleaning-with-food-storage/

SnagAJob.com’s CEO Has Tips to Help You Survive in the Volatile Job Market

Recently the CBS Early Show featured a panel of professionals assembled to offer advice to job seekers that included Shawn Boyer, president and CEO of SnagAJob.com. Boyer founded and leads SnagAJob.com, the nation’s largest hourly job site. He was named the 2008 National Small Business Person of the Year for helping unemployed Americans find work. Boyer is a former attorney who worked his first hourly job at a retail store as a teen..

In spite of all the grim economic news we’re hearing, there are still jobs out there. Shawn Boyer says you will find tens of thousands of hourly job listings when you search sites like SnagAJob.com. Increased competition means that, now more than ever, you have to stand out in the crowd if you want to get hired. Boyer offers practical advice in an article on the CBS Early Show site. I’ve summarized highlights here.

Be self aware. Don’t be afraid to talk about yourself to a prospective employer. That employer doesn’t know you, so doesn’t know what you have to offer. If you don’t have much experience at the job you’re applying for, what transferable skills do you have? For example, are you good at problem solving or have good communication skills?

Be thorough. Explain any gaps in your employment or education. Don’t leave a blank space on your application. For example, an employer wants to know you took time off to raise your kids.

Make sure your resume and job application are neat, have complete sentences and correct spelling.

Be flexible. If you can’t find a job in your area of interest and experience, take note of your transferable skills and apply for something else you might be qualified for. Where might those transferable skills be useful? If you’re good at organization, budgeting, sales, customer service and managing a team, you could get a position as a sales rep, hotel, restaurant or store manager or something similar.

Tell friends, neighbors and family you’re looking for work. In other words, practice networking. Boyer says you may be surprised by how many opportunities come from unlikely sources!

Be prepared. You may face questions like these in an interview:

1. Why do you want to work here?

2. What's your greatest weakness?

3. Tell me about yourself.

Boyer says the interviewer isn't asking you which job perks you like best. He or she wants to know what you can bring to the company. In answering these questions, be honest and positive. Don’t give your life history. Remember that employers want to hear about your work experience and interests. That’s all they really care about.

When you’re looking for work, know what the job description calls for, and tailor your application to the job. Practice interviewing with someone if you can. Make sure the voice mail message a prospective employer hears sounds clear and professional. Use a simple professional e-mail address as well. Respond promptly to any calls or e-mails from a prospective employer. Follow up with a thank you message after an interview.

You can read Boyer’s full article here.

SnagAJob.com reports they’ve had their best month ever in March. Their customer leads have nearly quadrupled in the past year and doubled in just the past six months. That represents a sharp rise in the number of people who are looking for hourly jobs.

If you’re between jobs or looking for extra income, check out SnagAJob.com. They feature more than 100,000 active job postings in industries including: restaurant, retail, office, homecare, hospitality and more. SnagAJob.com is also making it easier for hourly jobseekers to find the jobs they’re looking for.

SnagAJob.com recently re-categorized their job listings so you can now search by state and company. So if you’re looking for jobs in your state you can now click on the link that corresponds with your home state. If you want to search for jobs at specific places like Jiffy Lube or Sears, you can now choose from a list of SnagAJob.com’s employers. If you’re among that growing number of job seekers, click on the SnagAJob.com logo and find your next hourly job. Remember, think survival.

Find a job that fits your schedule at SnagAJob

Related Entries

Original: http://destinysurvival.com/2009/04/16/snagajobcom%e2%80%99sceo-has-tips-to-help-you-survive-in-the-volatile-job-market/

Storing your flour and making Olive Oil Bread

By Joseph Parish

I store up on a lot of food in the event that we have an emergency or a situation develops where food may not be readily available. As such, I on occasion, purchase food in bulk. A sample of this would be flour. However, flour as everyone knows can readily become buggy.

When it involves purchasing bulk amounts of flour, I can place it into 5 gallon plastic buckets with lids and store it for a long time. Let’s face it with the prices of food continually rising, the 25 pound sacks are actually less expensive than the smaller ones, however you really don’t want to waste money by having it go buggy or bad on you.

The popular seal-a-meal machines just do not successfully do the trick. They don’t really protect your flour and a different method is certainly in order.

I have generally discovered that flour will not go buggy if it isn't already buggy to begin with. Nevertheless, the only way to ensure this is to freeze the flour in your freezer. The simplest means of accomplishing this is to place small quantities of flour into jars, bags or one of the wife’s Tupperware containers, then freeze it for three days. At the end of the three days remove it from the freezer and let it sit for on a counter or table for two weeks. At the end of the two weeks refreeze it again for another three days. Repeat this process one more time.

Freezing the flour will readily kill any of the adult bugs which may be hovering within it however it does not kill the eggs, therefore you must freeze it to kill the adults then take it out of the freezer and let the eggs hatch and then refreeze it again to kill additional adults. A repeat of this process usually will usually kill the last of the bugs.

You could also place the flour in jars and dry heat packs the jars. This process would be similar in results to sealing the flour in the #10 cans with using the O2 packets.

I personally purchase my flour in the 25 pound packages and divide it up into one gallon sized Ziplocs. In each Ziploc I place 10 cups of flour. I next place the flour packs into the freezer for a matter of two weeks. This will kill anything that might be waiting in my flour. I remove the packs from the freezer and let them come to room temperature on the counter. Make sure to cover them with a towel because of its humidity and the resulting condensation could become a problem if you do not. After I feel that they are safe from both the adult bugs and eggs I stack them in a 5 gallon plastic bucket and place the lid on them.

I make bread with the major portion of the flour and most recipes call for about 3 cups of flour per bread. If I make 3 loaves of bread that leaves one cup for dusting, etc. By placing the 10 cups of flour in each gallon bag it becomes the perfect way to store just what you need for baking.

If you plan to store wheat berries the procedure is slightly different. You can safely store it similarly as I have discussed above however there is also another means of accomplishing the storage and that is a 5-gallon bucket with a 1/3 cup of dry ice chunk added. Place 3 to 4 inches of wheat in the bottom of the bucket. Next add the chunk of dry ice. Keep in mind that should you place the dry ice directly on the plastic bucket you could possibly crack it. Now fill the rest of the bucket with the wheat. Put the lid on the bucket loosely and wait half an hour for the CO2 to dissipate. Since the CO2 is heavier then the Oxygen it pushes all the O2 out of the bucket. Then you merely have to put the lid on tightly. Keep an eye on it for another hour. Should the bucket begin to bulge at all then just burp it as you would a Tupperware container?

Bugs simply cannot grow in an anaerobic environment. Good luck in storing up your flour. In ending I would like to leave you with an Olive Oil Bread recipe. This is a quick and easy bread which goes exceptionally well with pastas or Italian foods.

1/2 cup of warm water (Approximately 110° F)

2 1/4 teaspoons of dry yeast

1 teaspoon of white sugar

1 teaspoon of salt

4 tablespoons of olive oil

2 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour

Take a large mixing bowl and combine the warm water, the yeast, your teaspoon of sugar, the salt and the olive oil together. Stir in about 2 cups of the flour and create a small ball. Knead in the additional ½ cup of flour so that the dough is not sticky but soft. Place your kneaded dough in a greased bowl. Cover the bowl and let it rise until the dough has doubled in size. Proceed to punch down dough and then form it into a small ball or into a loaf shape. Place your bread onto a greased cookie tray. Cover the tray and let it rise for 20 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 375° F. Bake your bread for about 35 minutes making sure it gets a golden brown color to it. Should you desire a glazed or shiny affect simply brush an egg white with one tablespoon of water onto the bread during its last 5 minutes of baking.

Copyright @2008 Joseph Parish


Quick food storage camouflaging

By Joseph Parish

I am one of the privileged people that has a separate food storage area however many people lack the suitable space to stockpile even small quantities of food let alone to provide storage for a complete years supply. Their shelves and closets are required for necessary items such as clothing and dishes. This just does not leave extra places to put those cans of food. It is thus apparent that one must exercise their imagination to create a means for storing that extra food in the event that an emergency situation presents itself.

The key in situations such as these is to properly hide your food storage operations. There are certain items you will find necessary in order to pull off this disappearing act of your food storage space. You will require several large buckets as well as a few table clothes. Should you desire you could use plywood or glass tops on your buckets.

You must initially organize the various food storage assets within several different classes. Those items which you would make use of on a regular basis and those which can be stored. The stored items would include occasionally used foods such as those used on a monthly timetable. Create an inventory list and separate the items into the two groups.

Place those items designated as not likely to be used regularly into a large bucket to be stored away. These items may include sugar, powdered milk, spaghetti noodles, flour, oatmeal and any additional varieties of oats or noodles. Maintain a small canister in your kitchen which contains these items for your everyday use and when your backup begins to run low refill the canisters.

The simplest way to accomplish this storage magic is to use a large plastic bag. Place the bag inside your large bucket and begin filling it with your food products. When full tightly wrap the plastic bag and secure the end of it to keep most of the air out. Place the lid of the bucket on it and close it securely.

In order to hide these containers you could arrange several buckets in a fashion that would resemble a coffee table. This can be placed in the front of your couch merely by placing two side by side. Next place a table cloth on them which compliments your living room decor. Be sure to completely cover your buckets. For additional stability you could place a plywood top on the buckets prior to placing the table cloth on them.

Should you desire a side table you simply place four of the buckets in a line placing them two by two. Again to increase the stability a plywood top can be used. Place your table cloth now on top of the plywood and let it hang down to the bottom off the buckets.

You could also easily use the buckets to make shelves. Basically place two buckets at the bottom approximately five feet apart and then place a wooden board six feet long on the top of the buckets. Stack two additional buckets on the top of the board aligning them with the previously set buckets. Continue this until you have achieved the number of shelves that you desire.

Should you not like the appearance of the buckets when used as a shelf, you could place a stained or painted board in the front of the buckets and hide them. You could still get to the buckets from the side. The secret of hiding your food storage is merely using your imagination to the fullest.

Copyright @2008 Joseph Parish

Original: http://www.survival-training.info/articles11/Quickfoodstoragecamouflaging.htm

Essential Power Tools

I recently did a post on Essential Hand Tools, so now I figure I owe you guys one on Essential Power Tools.

1.) NO MAN SHOULD BE WITHOUT #1 - Drill (Corded or Cordless) - There are so many uses for this tool I am not sure how one would go without.

2.) NO MAN SHOULD BE WITHOUT #2 - Circular Saw - someone who is skilled with a circular saw can do amazing things that most of us need a table saw to do.

With the first two items a handy person has almost all of what is needed to build a house!

3.) Orbital Sander - great for general sanding and smoothing of surfaces.

4.) Jig Saw - a must if you want to do any type of curved cutting.

5.) Sawzall - I use thing mostly for demo but it is great for cutting in certain circumstances and in tight spaces.

6.) Table Saw - used to rip sheets of plywood or dimensional lumber that would VERY difficult if not impossible with a circular saw. I just used mine when repairing my fence to rip down a picket to 2 inches to fill an odd gap.

7.) Router - this is used to finish the edges of wood or put a decorative edge on them.

8.) Grinder (Benchtop) - I use mine all the time when sharpening my ax or my lawn mower blade.

9.) Compound Mitre Saw - if you do finish carpentry...this is the right tool to have. I would never even consider putting up molding or trim without one.

10.) Belt Sander - this is used when you have a lot of wood or a large surface area to sand. You need to be careful with this because you can remove a lot of wood in a short amount of time.

Having the right tool for the job is paramount and will make that job easy and more importantly successful.

...that is all.

Original: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BeASurvivor/~3/xHQ9CPmC-N0/essential-power-tools.html