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Monday, February 23, 2009


Being prepared is an essential part of being able to return your life and the life of your family back to normal as soon as possible whenever there is an emergency or disaster. Here is a basic acronym to help you remember some very important steps in being P.R.E.P.A.R.E.D.

P is for planning. You will need to take the necessary steps to have a plan in case of an emergency or a disaster.

R is for risk assessment. You will need to know the particular risks for your area, as well as the common everyday risks you or your family might encounter in an emergency or disaster.

E is for emergency contacts and communication. You will need to make sure that everyone in your family has the proper emergency contact information and be able to communicate with each other in a time of crisis.

P is for planning for alternate scenarios. Should your first plan encounter difficulties in being implemented, you will need a backup plan.

A is for assemble. Get your emergency supplies in place. It doesn’t matter if you are planning for a 72 hour period or even longer, as long as you have put together the basic items you will need for your own level of readiness.

R is for remembering. Remember the special needs of the elderly, infants in your family, your pets and people in your family or group with special medical needs.

E is for essentials. Don’t forget the basic items that you will need to survive a disaster or crisis. Water, food, shelter, first aid, and the ability to create a fire for warmth and cooking will all be essential.

D is for determination. Have the will and the determination to survive a crisis, a natural disaster or an emergency by being prepared in advance.

Staying above the water line!


Original: http://stealthsurvival.blogspot.com/2009/02/prepared.html

Riverwalker’s Top Ten Multi-Use Items

Realizing the many potential uses for multi-use items is a great way to be prepared. Here is my list for the ten best multi-use items that everyone should include in their emergency preparedness supplies.

Top Ten Multi-Use Items
(In alphabetical order)

1.) Aluminum Foil.

2.) Baling wire.

3.) Bandanas.

4.) Buckets.

5.) Dental Floss.

6.) Duct Tape.

7.) Paracord.

8.) Trash Bags.

9.) Walking Stick / Staff.

10.) Ziplock Bags.

Staying above the water line!


Original: http://stealthsurvival.blogspot.com/2009/02/riverwalkers-top-ten-multi-use-items.html

The Basics about Freeze-Dried and Dehydrated Foods

A reader recently wrote this comment:

As I am very new to this and have had a hard time wrapping my brain over freeze-dried and dehydrated foods. I understand I need to add water to "revive" them. If I buy a #10 can of Freeze-dried ground beef (servings 24 1/2 cups) how long will the food be good? Right now we are two people but we could quickly become 8. But I don't want to he to eat ground beef every meal. All information about freeze-dried or dehydrated food would be appreciated. February 18, 2009 5:45 PM

Our info is towards the bottom but first, here's the specifics from what we've researched on the internet for people new to using dried foods:

Freeze-Dried Food:
Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freeze-dried_food: Freeze-drying (also known as lyophilization or cryodesiccation) is a dehydration process typically used to preserve a perishable material or make the material more convenient for transport. Freeze-drying works by freezing the material and then reducing the surrounding pressure and adding enough heat to allow the frozen water in the material to sublime directly from the solid phase to gas.

The freeze-drying process: There are three stages in the complete freeze-drying process: freezing, primary drying, and secondary drying.

(1) Freezing
The freezing process consists of freezing the material. In a lab, this is often done by placing the material in a freeze-drying flask and rotating the flask in a bath, called a shell freezer, which is cooled by mechanical refrigeration,
dry ice and methanol, or liquid nitrogen. On a larger-scale, freezing is usually done using a freeze-drying machine. In this step, it is important to cool the material below its eutectic point, the lowest temperature at which the solid and liquid phases of the material can coexist. This ensures that sublimation rather than melting will occur in the following steps. Larger crystals are easier to freeze-dry. To produce larger crystals, the product should be frozen slowly or can be cycled up and down in temperature. This cycling process is called annealing. However, in the case of food, or objects with formerly-living cells, large ice crystals will break the cell walls (discovered by Clarence Birdseye). Usually, the freezing temperatures are between −50 °C and −80 °C. The freezing phase is the most critical in the whole freeze-drying process, because the product can be spoiled if badly done.

Amorphous (glassy) materials do not have an eutectic point, but do have a critical point, below which the product must be maintained to prevent melt-back or collapse during primary and secondary drying.
Large objects take a few months to freeze-dry.

(2) Primary drying
During the primary drying phase, the pressure is lowered (to the range of a few
millibars), and enough heat is supplied to the material for the water to sublimate. The amount of heat necessary can be calculated using the sublimating molecules’ latent heat of sublimation. In this initial drying phase, about 95% of the water in the material is sublimated. This phase may be slow (can be several days in the industry), because, if too much heat is added, the material’s structure could be altered.

In this phase, pressure is controlled through the application of
partial vacuum. The vacuum speeds sublimation, making it useful as a deliberate drying process. Furthermore, a cold condenser chamber and/or condenser plates provide a surface(s) for the water vapour to re-solidify on. This condenser plays no role in keeping the material frozen; rather, it prevents water vapor from reaching the vacuum pump, which could degrade the pump's performance. Condenser temperatures are typically below −50 °C (−60 °F).

It is important to note that, in this range of pressure, the heat is brought mainly by conduction or radiation; the convection effect can be considered as insignificant.

(3) Secondary drying
The secondary drying phase aims to remove unfrozen water molecules, since the ice was removed in the primary drying phase. This part of the freeze-drying process is governed by the material’s adsorption
isotherms. In this phase, the temperature is raised higher than in the primary drying phase, and can even be above 0 °C, to break any physico-chemical interactions that have formed between the water molecules and the frozen material. Usually the pressure is also lowered in this stage to encourage desorption (typically in the range of microbars, or fractions of a pascal). However, there are products that benefit from increased pressure as well.

After the freeze-drying process is complete, the vacuum is usually broken with an inert gas, such as nitrogen, before the material is sealed.

At the end of the operation, the final residual water content in the product is around 1% to 4%, which is extremely low.

Properties of freeze-dried products
If a freeze-dried substance is sealed to prevent the reabsorption of moisture, the substance may be stored at
room temperature without refrigeration, and be protected against spoilage for many years. Preservation is possible because the greatly reduced water content inhibits the action of microorganisms and enzymes that would normally spoil or degrade the substance.

Freeze-drying also causes less damage to the substance than other
dehydration methods using higher temperatures. Freeze-drying does not usually cause shrinkage or toughening of the material being dried. In addition, flavours and smells generally remain unchanged, making the process popular for preserving food. However, water is not the only chemical capable of sublimation, and the loss of other volatile compounds such as acetic acid (vinegar) and alcohols can yield undesirable results.

Freeze-dried products can be rehydrated (reconstituted) much more quickly and easily because the process leaves microscopic pores. The pores are created by the ice crystals that sublimate, leaving gaps or pores in their place. This is especially important when it comes to pharmaceutical uses. Lyophilization can also be used to increase the shelf life of some pharmaceuticals for many years.

Dehydrated Food:
Link from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dehydrated_food - Drying is a method of food preservation that works by removing water from the food, which prevents the growth of microorganisms and decay. Drying food using the sun and wind to prevent spoilage has been known since ancient times. Water is usually removed by evaporation (air drying, sun drying, smoking or wind drying) but, in the case of freeze-drying, food is first frozen and then water is removed by sublimation.

Bacteria and micro-organisms within the food and from the air need the water in the food to grow. Drying effectively prevents them from surviving in the food. It also creates a hard outer-layer, helping to stop micro-organisms from entering the food

= = =

Okay... that's the technical definitions and information about freeze-dried and dehydrated food. Practical applications?

Can I freeze-dry food at home?
First, it would be very difficult for you to freeze-dry your own food. Dehydrating is more than satisfactory, cost efficient, space-efficient, and lasts a while. But if you really have the bug... I found this link: http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/food-preservation4.htm with this information:

An Experiment in Freeze-Drying:
You probably don't have a good vacuum chamber at home, but you almost certainly have a refrigerator. If you don't mind waiting a week, you can experiment with freeze-drying at home using your freezer.

For this experiment you will need a tray, preferably one that is perforated. If you have something like a cake-cooling rack or a metal mesh tray, that is perfect. You can use a cookie sheet or a plate if that is all that you have, but the experiment will take longer.

Now you will need something to freeze-dry. Three good candidates are apples, potatoes and carrots (apples
have the advantage that they taste okay in their freeze-dried state). With a knife, cut your apple, potato and/or carrot as thin as you can (try all three if you have them). Cut them paper-thin if you can do it -- the thinner you cut, the less time the experiment will take. Then arrange your slices on your rack or tray and put them in the freezer. You want to do this fairly quickly or else your potato and/or apple slices will discolor.
In half an hour, look in on your experiment. The slices should be frozen solid.

Over the next week, look in on your slices. What will happen is that the water in the slices will sublimate away. That is, the water in the slices will convert straight from solid water to water vapor, never going through the liquid state (this is the same thing that
mothballs do, going straight from a solid to a gaseous state). After a week or so (depending on how cold your freezer is and how thick the slices are), your slices will be completely dry. To test apple or potato slices for complete drying, take one slice out and let it thaw. It will turn black almost immediately if it is not completely dry.

When all of the slices are completely dry, what you have is freeze-dried apples, potatoes and carrots. You can "reconstitute" them by putting the slices in a cup or bowl and adding a little boiling water (or add cold water and
microwave). You can eat the apples in their dried state or you can reconstitute them. What you will notice is that the reconstituted vegetables look and taste pretty much like the original! That is why freeze-drying is a popular preservation technique.

Most of the "dried" food you get from suppliers are freeze-dried. It's a faster process on the commercial level.

Using Dried Foods:
The basic principles of using freeze-dried food and dehydrated foods are the same. Once you open a can or jar of freeze-dried or dehydrated food, you need to treat like any other food exposed to "regular" air. You need to reseal the un-used portions either in the same container, or put in a separate container you can seal (like with a sealing machine). Or refrigerate the unused portion. The key to making it last in it's dried state is keeping moisture out of the food. Moisture promotes the growth of bacteria, therefore, the lack of moisture means it will be edible and not poisonous for a great while.

Recently we opened some dehydrated peas that we bought 2 or more years prior. They were just as crispy as a new container. Most suppliers will put a time limit on how long their products will be good for, unopened and opened. Be sure to make a note of product recommendations. Don't come to us because you open a container, let it sit out, get wet, and then gets filled with bacteria that makes it inedible. Keep containers closed!

What about the big #10 cans of Freeze-Dried Meat?
One can should last you a while. When we open one that size, we use what we need, then seal the rest as smaller portions (about 4 servings per - we are a family of 3 and one eats enough for 2!) in smaller containers with moisture absorbers. We seal these tightly, mark when it was opened and what the original product label was, and keep track to make sure these are used up before opening another of the same item.

You don't need to exclusively use dried chicken dices until it's gone then start on the dried ground beef or sausage. Just be sure to keep adequately sealed and tracked.

How Do I Rehydrate:
Most people prefer to "rehydrate" (add water back in) the food before using. It will depend on how much moisture was taken out as to how much water or other liquid and time you'll need to rehydrate.

You should be using these products now anyway, so experiment! Take some freeze-dried (usually cooked) chicken dices and time them against rehydrating raisins or onion dices. Make notes in your "stored foods cookbook" so you won't have to keep experimenting everytime you want to cook with them.

Use water, stock, apple juice, etc. to rehydrate. Pour off the extra or use in your recipe.

You could also rehydrate as you cook. For instance, if you are making spaghetti sauce, add the freeze-dried ground beef to the sauce with just a bit more water. The meat will absorb the sauce, making the meat even more tastier and the sauce a little thicker.

Same with adding onions and garlic to your sauce. When I make spaghetti sauce, I start off with a little olive oil, dried onions, dried garlic, then add the spaghetti sauce. When it looks like the onions and garlic have rehydrated, I'll add a bit more water.

You're worked with pasta, right? It's basically the same thing, except you don't need to boil your fruit and veggies, unless you want to lose many of the nutrients to the boiling liquid.

Is Rehydrating Necessary before Using?:
No. Not necessarily. My Very Hungry Tween Son (VHTS) loves eating dried/freeze-dried mango, blueberries, blackberries and peas just as-is. I personally love eating dried banana chips or strawberry slices. Of course, one must drink plenty of water or other liquids because as it digests, it will rehydrate a bit inside of you, which could cause constipation.

How to Dehydrate:
Dehydrating is an excellent way to preserve your harvest, or even what you get on special at the farmers market or at the super grocery store. We talk about dehydrating in this blog from time to time. We try to give specific information for specific food items.

I hope this answered your questions about freeze-dried food and dehydrated food. Please feel free to ask more questions.

Original: http://survival-cooking.blogspot.com/2009/02/basics-about-freeze-dried-and.html

Inventory Check: Mouse Traps

We live in the suburbs near Denver, CO, and still, we get mice. We see little white ones, and bigger brown field mice. They are smart and cunning, and do NOT wait until dark to scurry around. They love flour and rice, crackers, popcorn, and can get through thin plastic.

After trying all kinds of humane and other traps, we've discovered what works for us:
- Snap-Traps (by Victor)
- Snap-Clamp (by Victor??)

We bait them with a tiny smudge of peanut butter, and place the traps directly in their path from wherever they hide/hole up along the wall to the kitchen. We've arranged the furniture and traps so that the mice would have to go completely around in order to bypass the traps. They don't.

Note: Don't even bother with the traps that emit sounds or ultrasonic waves. First, what happens when you're electricity goes out? Second, they don't usually work. Mice are smart, and it's our experience that they just ignore the sound to get to the food they want.

Another Note: The traps with sticky paper don't work either. The mice must recognize the scent or the color or something because in all of the sticky traps we've put down, we've only succeeded in catching ourselves. Waste of money.

Do an experiment yourself. Don't have mice? Talk to your friends and neighbors and do your research for your area. You'll discover what works best for the mice in your area.

Then stock up on traps, bait and so forth. You don't want to spent all that money on rice to find that mice have nibbled through the bag to help themselves to dinner!

At the first sign of a mouse, set out your traps! Or even before.


72-hour kits: For pets?

A few months ago, we asked you to send in pictures of your progress, whether it was your 3-month supply, longer term storage, car kits, 72-hour kits, or whatever.

One of our readers, Jacki, sent us an interesting email of something that we hadn't really thought of before: 72-hour kits for your pets. Now, in talking with several people I've heard mixed opinions. A few people told me that in some emergencies, they would not take their pets with them; in most cases, it was because they have little kids and they could barely imagine carrying enough stuff for them, let alone a pet too (please don't come after me, PETA. I didn't say this. I don't even have a pet...). Other people have said that they would take their pet(s) with them no matter what. Whatever your opinion is, it's an important thing to think about if you have a pet. And even if you wouldn't take your pet in some situations, you should still think about stocking up some food and supplies for them for other reasons.

Anyway, here is a portion of the email we received, beginning with a list of what she put in her dog's 72-hour kit.

Backpack to keep it all in
Dog food
Water –he’s a big boy and drinks a lot!
Dishes for food and water
A stake and cable to secure him if I need to tie him out somewhere
Extra leash Muzzle (scared dogs bite!)
Wool blanket
Benadryl (he has allergies)
Shot record and veterinarian’s health certificate
List of contacts including the vet and kennel we use and family and friends willing to take him in an emergency (including 2 out-of-town contacts)
Brief summary of his quirks and instructions for feeding and medicine dosage
Not shown: plastic bags for disposing of dog poop

Since I took the photo I’ve added a towel to his kit. We’re still putting together the cat’s kit.

Also, for emergencies, his collar includes not just his license and rabies tag, but also a tag with my phone (land line and cell) and an out of town number just in case. He also has an embedded microchip should he lose his collar.

I had never thought about our pets in our emergency plans until one day while proudly showing off our 3-month supply to my daughter she made this observation: "What's Hunter going to eat? If we have to share this with him, it's not going to last three months!"

Thanks again for your email, Jacki. This is valuable information for anyone who has a pet!

Original: http://safelygatheredin.blogspot.com/2009/02/72-hour-kits-for-pets.html

101 Survival Gear Items

Our list of the top 101 Survival Gear Items our readers carry with them. Some of these items are great for Bug Out Bags, and Wilderness survival, while others are better suited for an urban survival situation.

  1. Cell Phone
  2. Water Bottles
  3. Flashlights
  4. MultiTool
  5. Pocket Knife
  6. Knife ( we recommend the SOG Seal Pup Elite)
  7. Emergency Food or MRE’S
  8. First Aid Kit
  9. Compass
  10. Personal locator beacon (PLB)
  11. Hiking Backpack
  12. Sleeping Bag
  13. Canteens
  14. Sewing Kit
  15. Maps
  16. Duct Tape
  17. Plastic Tubing
  18. Lighter
  19. Space blanket
  20. Plastic Freezer Bags
  21. Crowbar
  22. Fire steel
  23. Waterproof Matches
  24. Emergency Candles
  25. Hiking Tarp
  26. Water Storage
  27. Water Filter
  28. Camp Axe
  29. Shovel
  30. Flares
  31. Signal Mirror
  32. 4 Season Tent
  33. Ham Radio
  34. C.B. Radio
  35. Bivy sack
  36. Whistle
  37. Good Hiking Boots
  38. Gloves
  39. Chlorine Bleach
  40. Water-purification tablets
  41. 550 Paracord
  42. Hiking Hammock
  43. Tinder (for fire starting)
  44. Machete
  45. Plastic painters tarp
  46. Salt
  47. Mylar blanket
  48. L.E.D. HeadLamps
  49. Fishing line
  50. Dental floss
  51. Extra Socks
  52. Gloves
  53. Rain suit or poncho,
  54. Wide Brim Hat
  55. Ultimate Survival Kit
  56. Bandanas
  57. Bible
  58. Playing Cards
  59. Fire Extinguisher
  60. AM / Weather Radio
  61. Riffle
  62. Ammo
  63. B.B. / Pellet Gun
  64. Slingshot
  65. Snare Wire
  66. Multi-Vitamins
  67. GPS Device
  68. Portable Camping Stove
  69. Propane
  70. Batteries
  71. Solar Charger
  72. Fishing Pole
  73. Magnesium Fire Starter
  74. Survival Laptop
  75. Saw
  76. Plastic Trash Bags
  77. Binoculars
  78. Shortwave Radio
  79. Eating and Cooking Utensils
  80. Scissors
  81. Sunglasses
  82. Sunscreen
  83. Jumper Cables
  84. Cable Ties
  85. Oil (for your vehicle, can also be used to start a fire or create smoke for a signal fire)
  86. Tool Kit
  87. Tire Repair Kit
  88. Hard Candy ( can give you a boost of energy and a boost to your moral)
  89. Emergency Credit Card
  90. Personal Identification Papers
  91. Family Photos (moral Booster)
  92. Dust Mask
  93. Lantern
  94. Money ( Putting a $20 or a $50 in you kit might come in useful some day)
  95. Rubbing Alcohol
  96. Pepper or Bear Spray
  97. Can Opener
  98. Chemical hand warmer packets
  99. Energy Bars
  100. Survival Books (it’s hard to remember everything in your head)

Tools for self reliance may be a matter of perspective

Beautiful tools from flattop341 on Flickr
Use it up
Wear it out
Make it do
Or do without.

I don’t think I actually heard that until I was at least a young adult, but I am pretty sure that such an adage was a guiding light when I was growing up. It’s probably the reason that I’ve developed extensive skills in “repurposing” things. That’s what you tell people you are doing when you use an extension cord to tie a gate shut. You’ve just “repurposed” the extension cord—which is, after all, a direct equivalent to a rope—to keep the gate shut and the animal in or out while you calmly go about gathering up the tools and materials to repair or replace the gate latch.

I had a marvelous and very interesting fifth grade teacher who may have done more to teach my brain to think than any other single person up to that point in my life. He also encouraged the odd linkages my brain came up with, and could see how they worked. It’s stood me in good stead; I still tend to look at an item and see what it is while still appreciating how it is presented. Take shipping pallets for instance; lots of people see them as an eye sore, piled up behind buildings. I see woodgood wood, too, if in smaller pieces than you’d get at a lumber store. All you have to do is disassemble it a bit and you’ve got a tidy heap of lumber. Or, don’t disassemble it; just cut the top stringer off, get your jig saw out and cut decorative tops on the slats…lap them together and you’ve got a nice little garden fence. If nothing else, you can usually burn them if you’re willing to sift the ashes for nails and staples.

Milk jugs become garden cloches and other useful things ; styrofoam meat trays become drip trays for seedlings; tuna cans become buddy burners ; pumpkin guts become next year’s seeds. There are resources all over the place, if you see it right. That’s kind of the concept of guerrilla gardening, too; you’re just repurposing an empty lot.

People throw out the most amazing things. Just take a look at your local Craig’s List in the free section—! When I have the space, I’ll be scooping up a couple of those free hot tubs so I can finally pursue a version of raising catfish in a barrel . They might even be better than barrels, what with the size and the outlets already in them. See? Free hot tub = big water holder = aquaculture!

There does seem to be an assumption that to become more self reliant one must have an up scale lifestyle to begin with, and the attendant income. That’s simply not the case. Anything that doesn’t rot can probably be used for something else; the next time you’re about to drop something in the trash bin, take a second look. What is it? A container? What else might it contain? If you decide to take up camping, you absolutely do not have to save up for a trip to REI . Boy Scouts have been making pup tents out of tarps and sleeping bags out of wool blankets for decades.

Off the top of your head, what have you repurposed lately? How about just today? Got any inspiration to share?

Original: http://ourright2selfreliance.today.com/2009/02/15/tools-for-self-reliance-may-be-a-matter-of-perspective/

Recession grows interest in seeds, vegetable gardening

By Bruce Horovitz, USA TODAY

(Here is the original article.)

Hard economic times are acting like instant fertilizer on an industry that had been growing slowly: home vegetable gardening.

Amid the Washington talk of "shovel-ready" recession projects, it appears few projects are more shovel-ready than backyard gardens. Veggie seed sales are up double-digits at the nation's biggest seed sellers this year.

What's more, the number of homes growing vegetables will jump more than 40% this year compared with just two years ago, projects the National Gardening Association, a non-profit organization for gardening education.

"As the economy goes down, food gardening goes up," says Bruce Butterfield, the group's research director. "We haven't seen this kind of spike in 30 years."

At W. Atlee Burpee, the world's largest seed company, seed sales will jump 25% this year, Chairman George Ball estimates. "It's weird to have everyone else you talk to experiencing plunging markets. We're on a roll."

Burpee is taking pains to craft its marketing to fit the times, says Ball. It recently rolled out the "Money Garden," a value bundle of tomato, bean, red pepper, carrot, lettuce and snap pea seeds sold online at www.burpee.com. With a separate retail value of $20, the pack sells for $10, and under the right conditions, Burpee claims, can produce $650 worth of veggies.

"Seeds are God's microchip," says Ball. But in the suddenly hot world of veggie seed sales, Burpee has company:

•Park Seed. Vegetable seed sales are up 20% this year vs. 2008, says Walter Yates, who oversees the company's e-commerce.

Says Yates, "Every time this country goes through a recession, there is a surge of folks who want to get back to basics."

•Renee's Garden. Business manager Sarah Renfro says veggie seed sales were up about 10% last year and look to grow up to 20%.

"After years of declining veggie seed sales, the whole cycle has completely reversed," says Renee Shepherd, president.

•Harris Seeds. Home garden vegetable seed sales are up 80% from one year ago, says Dick Chamberlin, president. "A jump like this has never happened."

•Ferry-Morse Seed. After 2008 sales grew 5%, the company stocked up on 50% more vegetable seeds to sell in 2009, says John Hamrick, vice president of sales and marketing.

The veggies are apparently squeezing flowers for space in the nation's gardens. Ferry-Morse, along with others, is seeing a decline in sales of flower seeds, and Hamrick says the company has switched its inventory mix from 50-50 to 40% flower seeds and 60% veggies.

Original: http://fillingyourark.blogspot.com/2009/02/recession-grows-interest-in-seeds.html

Set Goals for Survival

Goal setting is a favorite topic of motivational speakers. You may think that, because you’re not a salesman of some kind, you don’t need to be concerned with setting goals. Goal setting for survival is important, but it doesn’t have to be an overwhelming affair. As with anything, as the old saying goes, if you aim at nothing, you’ll surely hit it.

The fast moving changes in the economy in recent months have caused many to be disoriented and anxious. You don’t have to be among that number. Set small attainable goals for each day, week, and month. Write them on a list or calendar. Do it in some way that reminds you of your goals. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t meet each goal. Not everything you attempt to grow in your garden will be a success, but that doesn’t mean your garden is a failure. So it is with attaining your goals.

As a daily goal, you might simply say you’re going to exercise a bit or eat more healthful foods. Get car tires checked, oil changed, etc. Clean up an area to free it up for storage food or other survival supplies. Keep your tasks manageable. When you’re finished with that day’s goals, write down one for the next day, and so on.

Weekly goals might include getting extra food to set aside when you go grocery shopping. Rotate out storage food items and order replacements. Go to the shooting range to practice.

As for monthly goals, you might take a class on first aid, orienteering, ham radio, or another skill you may want to learn. Set aside a weekend for a family activity, such as camping. Review bugout bags and replace any items that may need it, or add new supplies. Build your kits and bugoutbags over time and as you can afford it.

You know your lifestyle and your resources better than I do, so do what you can to work your way toward an improved state of survival preparedness. Anything you do is better than nothing. Don’t get impatient, thinking you have to have everything done all at once. If upheaval or calamity strikes tomorrow, you’ll be a bit further ahead because you did something today.

Original: http://destinysurvival.com/2009/02/19/set-goals-for-survival/